After installation the tensioner is momentarily depressed by pushing the chain guide towards the tensioner. When performing all of this timing business, the chain should be run through the guides properly and all the loose slack should be taken up by the chain tensioner.Ī new chain tensioner comes in a locked and retracted position. If you rotate the entire assembly the marks should once again line up. Ĭould be just the photo but the pic of the chain on the crank appears to show the chain is off by a tooth. Replace old chain and sprockets without rotating anything The engine is rotated until all index marks line up To change an unbroken chain this is done. The cams rotate at half the speed of the crank and there fore, at times they appear to be 180 out of time but will be in phase after one more complete turn of the crankshaft. Your question about cams being 180 out of phase is an interesting one. The cam chain tensioner is installed and set. Sprockets and chain installed in proper indexed locations. The camshafts are installed in a pre determined point of rotation. The crank is rotated to the desired spot. Should things get all messed up and you have to start from scratch. I would guess that slightly bent valves would not be heard while cranking the engine. The chain tensioner should be in position and loading the chain with tension before rotating the engine. Rotating a camshaft or crankshaft, without the others moving in time, is where you can run into problems. Once you removed the original chain and sprockets, nothing should be moved until the new chain and sprockets are installed. The new chains have coloured links that are placed at the marker on the sprockets of the cam shafts and the crankshaft. I have never had this particular engine apart but assembly of the sprockets and chain should be almost fool proof. You may also want to do a wiggle test of the harness to make sure that there are no wires that look good but are broken inside the insulation. If the crank and/or cam sensors are not making complete contact (or are dirty) then you'll have a failure. But being off by 1 tooth might be just enough to interfere with the pistons where you'll get valve and/or piston damage.Ĭheck to be sure that there are no "jack shafts" that spin other accessories, such as a balancing shaft or some kind of pump or timing device that the computer relies on.Ĭheck that all sensors are plugged in as well. It could be off by 1 tiny little tooth and not fire up, or if it did it'd run poorly. Make sure to move the crank to the proper position to begin the timing process, then check that the cam is in the correct position. Then pull the cover and check the chain timing. I agree with checking the timing alignment again.īut check the fuses and relays for the ignition to make sure you didn't unknowingly cause an issue that's an easy fix. No Check Engine Light comes on.Ī short video clip of the engine turning over: ![]() The engine sounds like it's turning freely, but it will not catch. The exhaust cam at 10 O'clock and Intake Cam at 2 O'clock. (With the crank shaft key at the 1 O'clock position and the timing mark on the sprocket at the 5 O'clock. I'm pretty sure that I set the timing correctly. I can turn the engine with a breaker bar, at the crank, and observed the crank pulley turning when the key is turned, so the starter motor is engaging and turning the engine over. I sprayed a healthy amount of Starter Fluid into the throttle body, while cranking. I tested the Ignition spark and found it to be weak, so I put in a new Ignition Module and plugs to be safe. I believe that I've ruled out the basics (Spark and Fuel). I put it all back together, and now it will not Start. So, I recently put a new timing chain into my 2004 Chevy Malibu Classic, 2.2L Ecotec.
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